Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

You may wish to see a short introduction to this section and the Cathedral first.

Section of Etruscan walls under the bridge near Palazzo Farnese which leads to the Cathedral

Though Viterbo has been a bone of contention to archaeologists its name contains a clear indication of its antiquity, being evidently composed of Vetus urbs (Old city). (..) No remains of the ancient town itself are now extant, beyond the foundations of a bridge near the cathedral, composed of large rectangular blocks, in six courses, rusticated and uncemented, and sundry sewers cut in the neighbouring cliffs. The name of the ancient town seems from Latin inscriptions to have been Surrina or Sorrina.
George Dennis - The Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria - 1878

View from the Papal Loggia over the walls surrounding Valle Faul, a depression between the hill of the Cathedral and that of SS. Trinità

From Montefiascone, we travel a plain and pleasant champain to Viterbo, which presents itself with much state afar off, in regard of her many lofty pinnacles and towers.
John Evelyn - Diary and Correspondence - November 1644
The walls of Viterbo were built between the XIth and the XIIIth century; they surrounded three hills and they included some areas which were farmed at the time and still are because the modern development of the town occurred entirely outside the walls which are almost intact, with very minor exceptions. The depression of Faul was so remote from the populated part of the town that it was used as a lazzaretto where travellers coming from districts affected by epidemics had to wait before being allowed to access the city centre. They found in the lazzaretto some basic facilities, including a church (you may wish to see the Lazzaretto of Ancona, a well designed XVIIIth century facility).

(left) Torre della Bella Galliana or Torre Branca; (right) Torre Biele

In order to strengthen the fortifications of the town some towers were built at key sites outside the walls.
Torre della Bella Galliana was built in 1296 by Corrado Branca who was podestà of Viterbo; podestà were the chief magistrates in many medieval Italian towns; usually they came from another town in order to ensure their impartiality; Torre della Bella Galliana protected the access to Porta di Valle (more on Bella Galliana in page four).
Torre Biele is a massive construction near Porta Romana; it was built in 1270 as part of an enlargement of the walls at the peak of Viterbo's development; the original name of the gate was Porta di S. Michele.

(left) Porta del Carmine; (right) Porta di Valle

These two gates retain their medieval aspect; Porta di Valle was closed in 1568 when a new gate (Porta di Faul) was opened a short distance away; the two gates retain the upper structure from which an additional vertical door was lowered in case of attack.

Porta S. Pietro and Palazzo di Donna Olimpia

This gate was protected by a small castle which was turned into a more elegant residence by Cardinal Francesco Piccolomini (Pope Pius III for 26 days in 1503). The palace was eventually acquired by Donna Olimpia Maidalchini, sister-in-law of Pope Innocent X, who lived in nearby S. Martino al Cimino.

(left) Porta di Faul; (right) Porta Romana

The Farnese, the family of Pope Paul III came from Canino, a small town between Viterbo and the sea and they acquired many fiefdoms which practically surrounded Viterbo. Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, grandson of the Pope, opened Porta di Faul in 1568; the gate was officially named Porta Farnesiana, but because it gave access to the depression of Faul, the official name was soon forgotten.
Porta Romana is the most important gate of Viterbo because it is the entrance to town for those who arrive from Rome; it was opened in 1643 when it replaced a smaller gate inside a tower and it was decorated for the 1650 Jubilee Year; it was redesigned in 1705 and for this reason it bears the coats of arms of two popes; the statue at the top of the gate portrays St. Rose of Viterbo, the patron saint.

(left) Porta della Verità; (right) Porta Fiorentina

Porta della Verità (Truth) has this name because it was located opposite S. Maria della Verità, a church outside the walls; the gate was redesigned in 1728 and decorated with the coat of arms of the reigning pope (Benedict XIII).
Porta Fiorentina is the last historical gate of Viterbo; it was built in 1768 and it replaced a previous gate; also in this case it was decorated with the coat of arms of the reigning pope (Clement XIII); two side openings were added in the late XIXth century, similar to what occurred at Porta del Popolo in Rome.

(left/centre) Bell tower and apse of S. Sisto near Porta Romana; (right) coat of arms near Porta della Verità

The apse of S. Sisto was spared by the 1944 bombings which destroyed the façade; it was built at the beginning of the XIIIth century and although it was visible only from outside the walls it was finely decorated. A very short section of the walls is decorated with coats of arms very similar to those on the loggia of the Papal Palace.

(left) Coat of arms of Viterbo at Porta S. Pietro; (right-above) inscription at Torre della Bella Galliana (left) and coat of arms of Cardinal Francesco Piccolomini at Palazzo di Donna Olimpia (right); (right-below) statue of St. Rose between the coats of arms of Pope Clement XI (left) and Pope Innocent X (right) at Porta Romana

The sun was setting as we drove down the long descent of the Ciminian forest, and entered Viterbo, and over the gate the great figure of Santa Rosa holding her crucifix stood out stern and grey against the opal sky.
Augustus J. C. Hare - Days near Rome - 1875
The lion in the coat of arms of Viterbo is a symbol of the Guelph faction (supporters of the pope) and perhaps also a reference to Hercules to whom a temple was dedicated in antiquity. The palm was the symbol of Ferento, a rival town north of Viterbo which was conquered and destroyed in 1172.

Town Museum: Drawings showing Macchina di Santa Rosa: (left) XVIIIth century; (centre) 1883; (right) 1867

You see the body of that Saint yet entire, though buried above 100 years ago. She lies along in her Tomb, and is seen by the drawing of a Curtain from before her.
Richard Lassels - The Voyage to Italy - 1668
Santa Rosa was not a professed nun, but a member of the Third Order of S. Francis. In the thirteenth century she was as conspicuous for her eloquence as for her charity, and for the extraordinary moral influence she exercised over the people of Viterbo. Hare
The Macchina di Santa Rosa is an imposing construction that is carried on the shoulders of about 100 porters through the streets of the historic centre of Viterbo on the evening of September 3 of each year, the eve of the feast of Santa Rosa. The transport moves from Piazza San Sisto, near Porta Romana, where the machine is assembled in the previous weeks. The height of the structure varies according to the projects but is still around thirty meters and the weight about five tons. The first reliable information about the machine dates back to the end of the XVIIth century. At that time similar structures were popular in Rome to celebrate a new pope or other events (see some drawings of ephemeral arches in Piazza del Campidoglio).

Torre dell'Orologio and Palazzo del Podestà

While the towers along or outside the walls protected Viterbo from external attacks, its inhabitants built many towers to protect themselves from their fellow citizens; several of them can still be seen by wandering about especially in the southern section of the town which best retains its medieval aspect.

(left) Torre di Borgognone; (centre) tower in Via Saffi; (right) Torre degli Alessandri

(left) Small bell tower of S. Maria di Farfa seen from the Papal Loggia; (centre) Torre Alessandri Scacciaricci in the quarter of S. Pellegrino; (right) Torre Braimando at Pianoscarano

Go to:
Viterbo - Cathedral and Papal Palace
Viterbo - Medieval Monuments
Viterbo - Renaissance and Baroque Monuments
Viterbo - Museums

In and about Viterbo - other pages:
Bagnaia
Bagnoregio
Bomarzo
Orte, Vasanello and Gallese
S. Maria della Querce
S. Martino al Cimino
Tuscania
Vitorchiano