Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

John Evelyn (1620-1706) in 1643 left England to avoid further involvement in the English Civil War in which he had supported the Royalist party. He visited Rome from November 4, 1644 to the end of January 1645 when he left for Naples. He returned to Rome on February 13 and he finally left on May 18.
The truth appears to be, that Evelyn's Diary, as found among the papers at Wotton, had been copied by the writer from memoranda made at the time of the occurrences noted in it, and had received occasional alterations and additions in the course of transcription. Evelyn has himself told us in what way the book originated. "In imitation of what I had seen my father do," he remarks, when speaking of himself in his twelfth year, "I began to observe matters more punctually, which I did use to set down in a blank almanack." We suppose the matters thus observed to have been gradually transferred by Evelyn from the blank almanacks to the quarto volume in which they were found. The quarto consists of seven hundred pages written clearly by Evelyn in a very small close hand, and containing the continuous records of fifty-six years.
From the Preface to the first edition of Evelyn's Diary which was published in 1818.
Excerpts from John Evelyn's Diary and Correspondence related to his stay in Rome.

• Piazza di Spagna
• Palazzo Barberini
• Chiesa dei Cappuccini
• Mausoleo di Augusto
• Archiginnasio della Sapienza
• Obelisk of the Lateran
• S. Gregorio Magno
• S. Paolo fuori le mura
• Collegio Romano and Museo Kircheriano
• S. Maria in Vallicella
• Giardini del Quirinale
• S. Carlo alle Quattro Fontane
• S. Susanna, Acqua Felice and S. Maria della Vittoria
• S. Bernardo alle Terme
• Villa Montalto
• S. Maria Maggiore Cappella Paolina
• Villa Medici
• Giardini di Villa Borghese
• Galleria Borghese
• Palazzo Belvedere
• S. Pietro
• Camposanto Teutonico
• Spedale di S. Spirito
• Papal Procession
• Kiss of the toe
• Sermon to the Jews
• Charities at S. Maria sopra Minerva
• Treatment of the Pilgrims
• Monte di Pietà
• Palazzi di Campidoglio
• S. Maria in Aracoeli
• Acqua Paola
• Excursion to Tivoli

Piazza di Spagna I came to Rome on the 4th November, 1644, about five at night; and, being perplexed for a convenient lodging, wandered up and down on horseback, till at last one conducted us to Monsieur Petit's, a Frenchman, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and, having bargained with my host for twenty crowns a month, I caused a good fire to be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so very wet.

Palazzo Barberini The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an object, as any modern building in Europe. It has a double portico, at the end of which we ascended by two pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and void in the well. One of these led us into a stately hall, the vault whereof was newly painted a fresco, by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini il Cortone. (..) In the court is a vast broken guglia, or obelisk, having divers hieroglyphics cut on it.

Chiesa dei Cappuccini 21st February 1645. I walked in the morning up the hill towards the Capuchins, where was then Cardinal Antonio (brother to the late Pope Urban VIII.) of the same order. He built them a pretty church, full of rare pictures. (..) It is a lofty edifice, with a beautiful avenue of trees, and in a good air.

Mausoleo di Augusto 24th February 1645. The Mausoleum Augusti, betwixt the Tyber and the Via Flaminia, now much ruined, which had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It was intended as a cemetery for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and was covered with a cupola of white marble, environed with stately trees and innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden.

Archiginnasio della Sapienza 24th February 1645. We passed the afternoon at the Sapienza, a very stately building full of good marbles, especially the portico, of admirable architecture.

Obelisk of the Lateran I went to visit that ancient See and Cathedral of St. John di Laterano, and the holy places thereabout. (..) We saw before the church the obelisk, which is indeed most worthy of admiration. (..) It is full of hieroglyphics, serpents, men, owls, falcons, oxen, instruments, etc., containing (as Father Kircher the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and abstruse learning of that people. The vessel, galley, or float, that brought it to Rome so many hundred leagues must needs have been of wonderful bigness and strange fabric.

S. Gregorio Magno 14th November 1644. We went to St. Gregorio, in Monte Celio, where are many privileged altars, and there they showed us an arm of that saint, and other relics. Before this church stands a very noble portico.

S.Paolo fuori le mura 23rd January 1645. The church is near 500 feet long and 258 in breadth, and has five great aisles joined to it. (..) The main roof is supported by 100 vast columns of marble. (..) The gates are brass, made at Constantinople in 1070, as you may read by those Greek verses engraven on them.

Collegio Romano and Museo Kircheriano 23rd November 1644. I went to the Jesuits' College again, the front whereof gives place to few for its architecture, most of its ornaments being of rich marble. It has within a noble portico and court, sustained by stately columns, as is the corridor over the portico, at the sides of which are the schools for arts and sciences, which are here taught as at the University. (..) There are two noble libraries, where I was showed that famous wit and historian, Famianus Strada. (..) On the 8th November 1644: Father Kircher (professor of Mathematics and the oriental tongues) showed us many singular courtesies, leading us into their refectory, dispensatory, laboratory, gardens, and finally (through a hall hung round with pictures of such of their order as had been executed for their pragmatical and busy adventures) into his own study, where, with Dutch patience, he showed us his perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical experiments, models, and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most of them since published by himself.

S. Maria in Vallicella We went into the sacristia, where, the tapers being lighted, one of the Order preached; after him stepped up a child of eight, or nine years old, who pronounced an oration with so much grace, that I never was better pleased than to hear Italian so well and so intelligently spoken. This course it seems they frequently use, to bring their scholars to a habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their action and assurance, which none so much want as ours in England.

Giardini del Quirinale The garden, which is called the Belvedere di Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of the Vatican, is most excellent for air and prospect; its exquisite fountains, close walks, grots, piscinas, or stews for fish, planted about with venerable cypresses, and refreshed with watermusic, aviaries, and other rarities. (..) I went to the Pope's Palaces at Monte Cavallo, where I now saw the garden more exactly, and found it to be one of the most magnificent and pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener is annually allowed 2000 scudi for the keeping of it. Here I observed hedges of myrtle above a man's height; others of laurel, oranges, nay, of ivy and juniper. (..) Here are hydraulic organs, a fish-pond, and an ample bath.

S. Carlo alle Quattro Fontane The church of St. Carlo is a singular fabric for neatness, of an oval design, built of a new white stone; the columns are worth notice.

S. Susanna, Acqua Felice and S. Maria della Vittoria 12th November 1644. The facciata of this church is noble, the soffito within gilded and full of pictures; especially famous is that of Susanna, by Baldassare di Bologna. (..) It is a basso-relievo of white marble, representing Moses striking the rock, which is adorned with camels, men, women, and children drinking, as large as life; a work for the design and vastness truly magnificent. The water (..) gushes into three ample lavers raised about with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black stone, very rare and antique. (..) Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front. In this church was sung the Te Deum by Gregory XV., after the signal victory of the Emperor at Prague.

S. Bernardo alle Terme 12th November 1644. We saw Dioclesian's Baths, whose ruins testify the vastness of the original foundation and magnificence. (..) The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of one only of these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form of an urn with a cover.

Villa Montalto 12th November 1644. Mont Alto's villa is entered by a stately gate of stone built on the Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious park full of fountains, especially that which salutes us at the front; stews for fish; the cypress walks are so beset with statues, inscriptions, relievos, and other ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The citron trees are uncommonly large.

Cappella Paolina That of P. Paulus, which we next entered is beyond all imagination glorious, and above description. It is so encircled with agates, and other most precious materials, as to dazzle and confound the beholders. The basso-relievos are for the most part of pure snowy marble, intermixed with figures of molten brass, double gilt, on lapis lazuli.

Villa Medici It is a magnificent, strong building, with a substruction very remarkable, and a portico supported with columns towards the gardens, with two huge lions, of marble, at the end of the balustrade. (..) The whole outside of the facciata is incrusted with antique and rare basso-relievos and statues. (..) I spent the morning in attending the entrance and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici, the ambassador from the Grand Duke of Florence. (..) This night were glorious fire-works at the Palace of Cardinal Medici and lights of several colours all about the windows through the city, which they contrive by setting the candles in little paper lanterns dyed with various colours, placing hundreds of them from story to story; which renders a gallant show. (..) Descending into the garden, is a noble fountain governed by a Mercury of brass. (..) There is likewise in this garden a fair obelisk, full of hieroglyphics.

Giardini di Villa Borghese This garden abounded with all sorts of delicious fruit and exotic simples, fountains of sundry inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also adjoining to it a vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans, cranes, etc. and divers strange beasts, deer, and hares. (..) The groves are of cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and olive. (..) To this is a volary, full of curious birds. (..) Round the house is a baluster of white marble, with frequent jettos of water, and adorned with a multitude of statues.

Galleria Borghese The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Cavaliero Bernini, is observable for the pure whiteness of the stone, and the art of the statuary plainly stupendous.

Palazzo del Belvedere We descended into the Vatican gardens, called Belvedere, where entering first into a kind of court, we were showed those incomparable statues of Laocoon with his three (!) sons embraced by a huge serpent. (..) We were likewise showed the relics of the Hadrian Moles, viz. the Pine, a vast piece of metal which stood on the summit of that mausoleum; also a peacock of copper. (..) This library is the most nobly built, furnished, and beautified of any in the world; ample, stately, light, and cheerful, looking into a most pleasant garden. The walls and roof are painted. (..) As to the ranging of the books, they are all shut up in presses of wainscot, and not exposed on shelves to the open air, nor are the most precious mixed amongst the more ordinary, which are showed to the curious only. (..) In the garden (..) are many stately fountains; (..) some fair grots and water-works, that noble cascade where the ship dances.

S. Pietro On each side of this portico, are two campaniles, or towers, whereof there was but one perfected, of admirable art. (..) On the summit of this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable of receiving thirty-five persons. This I entered, and engraved my name amongst other travellers. (..) On the battlements of the church, also all overlaid with lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so many are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few houses inhabited by men who dwell there, and have enough to do to look after the vast reparations which continually employ them. (..) Under the cupola, and in the centre of the church, stands the high altar (..) with that stupendous canopy of Corinthian brass, which heretofore was brought from the Pantheon; it consists of four wreathed columns, partly channelled and encircled with vines, on which hang little puti, birds and bees (the arms of the Barberini), sustaining a baldacchina, of the same metal. The four columns weigh an hundred and ten thousand pounds, all over richly gilt; this, with the pedestals, crown, and statues about it, form a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond all that man's industry has produced of the kind; it is the work of Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter, and poet, who, a little before my coming to the city, gave a public opera (for so they call shows of that kind), wherein he painted the scenes, cut the statues, invented the engines, composed the music, writ the comedy, and built the theatre. (..) The statue of St. Andrew, the work of Fiamingo, admirable above all the other; above is preserved the head of that Apostle, richly enchased. It is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed in a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief architect, who found himself outdone by this artist.

Camposanto Teutonico 12th December 1644. I went again to St. Peter's, to see the chapels, churches, and grots under the whole church. (..) Hence we walked into the cemetery', called Campo Santo, the earth consisting of several ship-loads of mould, transported from Jerusalem, which consumes a carcase in twenty-four hours.

Spedale di S. Spirito Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of ours, who had some intendency in an Hospital (..) which he showed us. The Infirmatory, where the sick lay, was paved with various coloured marbles, and the walls hung with noble pieces; the beds are very fair; in the middle is a stately cupola, under which is an altar decked with divers marble statues, all in sight of the sick, who may both see and hear mass, as they lie in their beds. The organs are very fine, and frequently played on to recreate the people in pain. (..) In another quarter, are children of a bigger growth, 450 in number, who are taught letters. In another, 500 girls, under the tuition of divers religious matrons, in a monastery, as it were, by itself. I was assured there were at least 2000 more maintained in other places. (..) Nor is the benefit small which divers young physicians and chirurgeons reap by the experience they learn here amongst the sick, to whom those students have free access. (..) To this joins an apartment destined for the orphans; and there is a school: the children wear blue, like ours in London, at an hospital of the same appellation. Here are forty nurses, who give suck to such children as are accidentally found exposed and abandoned. (..) To this building joins the house of the commendator, who, with his officers attending the sick, make up ninety persons. (..) Under the portico, the sick may walk out and take the air. (..) There is an apothecary's shop, fair and very well stored. (..) There is a convent and an ample church for the friars and priests who daily attend. The church is extremely neat, and the sacristia is very rich. Indeed it is altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw.

Papal Procession 22nd November 1644. Was the solemn and greatest ceremony of all the State Ecclesiastical, viz., the procession of the Pope (Innocent X.) to St. John di Laterano, which, standing on the steps of Ara Celi, near the Capitol, I saw pass in this manner:- First went a guard of Switzers to make way, and divers of the avant-guard of horse carrying lances. Next followed those who carried the robes of the Cardinals, two and two; then the Cardinals mace-bearers; the caudatari, on mules; the masters of their horse; the Pope's barber, tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic officers, all on horseback, in rich liveries; the squires belonging to the Guard; five men in rich liveries led five noble Neapolitan horses, white as snow, covered to the ground, with trappings richly embroidered; which is a service paid by the King of Spain for the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily, pretended feudatories to the Pope; three mules of exquisite beauty and price, trapped in crimson velvet; next followed three rich litters with mules, the litters empty; the master of the horse alone, with his squires; five trumpeters; the armerieri estra muros; the fiscal and consistorial advocates; capellani, camerieri de honore, cubiculari and chamberlains, called secreti. Then followed four other camerieri, with four caps of the dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats carried on staves; four trumpets; after them, a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, very rich, and followed by innumerable staffieri and pages; the secretaries of the chancellaria, abbreviatori-accoliti in their long robes, and on mules; auditori di rota; the dean of the roti and master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave, but rich foot-clothes, and in flat episcopal hats; then went more of the Roman and other nobility and courtiers, with divers pages in most rich liveries on horseback; fourteen drums belonging to the Capitol; the marshals with their staves; the two syndics; the conservators of the city, in robes of crimson damask; the knight-confalionier and prior of the R. R., in velvet toques; six of his Holiness's mace-bearers; then the captain, or governor, of the Castle of St. Angelo, upon a brave prancer; the governor of the city; on both sides of these two long ranks of Switzers; the masters of the ceremonies; the cross-bearer on horse-back, with two priests at each hand on foot; pages, foot-men, and guards, in abundance. Then came the Pope himself, carried in a litter, or rather open chair, of crimson velvet, richly embroidered, and borne by two stately mules; as he went, he held up two fingers, blessing the multitude who were on their knees, or looking out of their windows and houses, with loud vivas and acclamations of felicity to their new Prince. This chair was followed by the master of his chamber, cup-bearer, secretary, and physician; then came the Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal-Priests, Cardinal-Deacons, Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their several and distinct habits, some in red, others in green flat hats with tassels, all on gallant mules richlytrapped with velvet, and led by their servants in great state and multitudes; after them, the apostolical protonotari, auditor, treasurer, and referendaries; lastly, the trumpets of the rear-guard, two pages of arms in helmets with feathers and carrying lances; two captains; the pontifical standard of the Church; the two alfieri, or cornets, of the Pope's light horse, who all followed in armour and carrying lances; which, with innumerable rich coaches, litters, and people, made up the procession. (..) I spent most of the day in viewing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely erected a few days before, and till now covered; the one by the Duke of Parma, in the Foro Romano, the other by the Jews in the Capitol, with flattering inscriptions. They were of excellent architecture, decorated with statues and abundance of ornaments proper for the occasion, since they were but temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, etc., painted and framed on the sudden, but as to outward appearance solid and very stately.

Kiss of the toe Having seen the entry of the ambassador of Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where, by favour of our Cardinal Protector, Fran. Barberini, I was admitted into the consistory, heard the ambassador make his oration in Latin to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state, or throne, and changing two pontifical mitres; after which, I was presented to kiss his toe, that is, his embroidered slipper, two Cardinals holding up his vest and surplice, and then being sufiiciently blessed with his thumb and two fingers for that day, I returned home to dinner.

Sermon to the Jews January 7th, 1645. A sermon was preached to the Jews, at Ponte Sisto, who are constrained to sit till the hour is done; but it is with so much malice in their countenances, spitting, humming, coughing, and motion, that it is almost impossible they should hear a word from the preacher. A conversion is very rare.

Charities at S. Maria sopra Minerva There are many charities dealt publicly here, especially at the procession on the Annunciation, when I saw his Holiness, with all the Cardinals, Prelates, etc., in pontificalibus; dowries being given to 300 poor girls all clad in white. The Pope had his tiara on his head, and was carried on men's shoulders in an open arm-chair, blessing the people as he passed.

Treatment of the Pilgrims In the Hospital of the Pelegrini della S. Trinità, I had seen the feet of many pilgrims washed by Princes, Cardinals, and noble Romans, and served at table, as the ladies and noble women did to other poor creatures in another room. It was told us that no less than 444,000 men had been thus treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 25,500 women, as appears by the register, which brings store of money.

Monte di Pietà The Monte Pieta, was instituted as a bank for the poor, who, if the sum be not great, may have money upon pawns. To this joins St. Martino, to which belongs a Schola, or Corporation, that do many works of charity.

Palazzi di Campidoglio On the 7th November 1644: In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. and of Leo X., of marble. (..) In another hall, are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, set about with fine antique heads. (..) Ascending by the steps of the other corner, are inserted four basso-relievos, viz. the triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity and rareness of the work, I caused my painter. Carlo Neapolitano, to copy. (..) In the corner of this court stand (..) two monstrous feet of a colosse of Apollo. (..) All these noble statues, etc., belong to the city, and cannot be disposed of to any private person, or removed hence, but are preserved for the honour of the place, though great sums have been offered for them by divers Princes, lovers of art and antiquity.

S. Maria in Aracoeli November 6th 1644. Here the feast of our Blessed Saviour's nativity being yearly celebrated with divers pageants, they began to make the preparation. (..) January 6th. Was the ceremony of our Saviour's baptism at Ara Celi was a great procession, del Bambino, as they call it, where were all the magistrates, and a wonderful concourse of people.

Acqua Paola 25th January 1645. We ascended a very steep hill to that stately fountain called Acqua Paula, being the aqueduct which Augustus had brought to Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V.; a rare piece of architecture, and which serves the city after a journey of thirtyfive miles, here pouring itself into divers ample layers, out of the mouths of swans (!) and dragons, the arms of this Pope. Situate on a very high mount, it makes a most glorious show to the city, especially when the sun darts on the waters as it gusheth out.

Excursion to Tivoli On the 7th May 1645. At about six miles from Rome, we pass the Teverone, a bridge built by Mammea, the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient sepulchres, amongst others that of Valerius Volusi; and near it pass the stinking sulphureous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we found a heap, or turret, full of inscriptions, now called the Tomb of Plautius.

Travellers covered in this section

• Introductory page
• Gregory Martin's "Roma Sancta", a description of Christian Rome in 1581
• Fynes Moryson's An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel .. in Italy .. in 1594
• John Evelyn's Diary and Correspondence related to his stay in Rome in 1644
• Francis Mortoft's Journal of his travels in France and Italy in 1659
• John Ray's Observations (..) made in a journey through part of (..) Italy in 1663
• Richard Lassels' The Voyage of Italy, or a Compleat Journey through Italy in ca 1668
• Joseph Addison's Remarks on several parts of Italy, in the years 1701, 1702, 1703
• Jonathan and Jonathan Richardson's Account of Some of the Statues, etc. in Italy - 1722
• Edward Wright's Observations made in France, Italy &c. in the years 1720, 1721 and 1722.
• Excerpts from John Dyer's The Ruins of Rome written in 1740
• Thomas Gray's Letters from France and Italy in 1739-1741
• James Boswell's Letters on the Grand Tour in 1765
• Tobias Smollett's Travels through France and Italy in 1765
• John Moore's View of Society and Manners in Italy (in 1775) - publ. 1781
• John Chetwode Eustace's Classical Tour of Italy (in 1802) - publ. 1813
• Joseph Forsyth's Remarks on Antiquities, Arts, and Letters in Italy in 1802-1803
• John Cam Hobhouse's Dissertations on the Ruins of Rome in 1818
• Henry Matthews' Diary of an Invalid (in 1817-1818)
• Anna Jameson's Diary of an Ennuyée (in 1821-1822) - publ. 1826
• William Hazlitt's Notes of a Journey Through France and Italy in 1824-1825
• Samuel Rogers' Italy - publ. in 1830 with illustrations by J.M. William Turner
• Hans Christian Andersen's The Improvisatore - 1834 (Engl. translation 1845)
• George Stillman Hillard's Six Months in Italy in ca 1847-1848

Read What Dante Saw.
Read What Goethe Saw.
Read What Lord Byron Saw.
Read What Charles Dickens Saw.
Read What Henry James Saw.
Read What Mark Twain Saw.
Read What William Dean Howells Saw.
Read Dan Brown's Spaghetti Bolognaise (excerpts from Angels and Demons)